My buddy, Jacob Peek, has now posted the photographs taken during my ride north. He has made a major revision in the format, and I still have to seek instructions on how to view the photographs. Maybe you can figure that out. Take a look and let me know. I did notice that the Photograph Names did not transfer over. I plan to spend some time over the next few days renaming the photographs so you will have some idea of what you are viewing.
Once again, I am indebted to Jacob and my nephew, Ken Causey, without whom I would have neither this blog nor the posting of these photographs.
Photographs of Arctic Ride
on July 26, 2009
Back Home In Riviera, TX
on July 26, 2009
I arrived back at my home, on Baffin Bay in Texas exactly one week ago almost to the minute. So why am I only now updating my Blog. I simply cannot explain it--in fact I did the same thing when I returned from Tierra del Fuego. I suppose I just do not have the courage to admit that the adventure is now at an end. Actually, I have found both times that as I get near the end of the ride, I seem to go into a "funk". A more sophisticated rider, might label that as a bit of depression. However, Texas riders to do not admit to depression. They just suffer from a bit of "funk".
After returning to Texas, the ride west and then east back to Riviera can only be described as hot, dusty and very dry. And very hot! Very, very hot! It has taken me the whole week just to recover. I ride a bit every day, but at a steady temperature between 97 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit, I don't seem to ride far.
How did the ride to Prudhoe Bay and the Arctic Ocean compare to the ride to Tierra del Fuego? Well, I should have ridden to north first and then ridden south through Central and South America. After the adventures of Central and South America, the ride north was a bit tame. Maybe even anticlimatic.
But let's not overlook the beauty of Alberta, British Columbia, the Yukon and Alaska. The roads were great, the mountains, lakes and rivers were grandiose and the wild animals were everywhere. And the people! As good and great as the folks that I met in South and Central America. Almost as great as my friends here in Riviera, Texas! And new friends, people like Ron Clark, Gary and the entire Airhead Group and Bruce and Erma Hoffman. And seeing old friends, Brad Rogers, Paula Sanbakken, Kyle and Bonita Thomas, Teri and Dave Blauer and Tom and Karen Johns (all who fed and gave me lodging)! Truly a great adventure!
What next? I have a few short rides planned, maybe to Ruidosa in September, down into Mexico in a few days, into Arkansas in October....and soon I have to take some time to go back to Guatemala to really study Spanish. A longer ride? I am pondering. Last week my buddy from Ushuaia and Buenos Aires, Mathias Schmid, wrote suggesting I meet him in Africa and spend time riding that great continent. I would love to but it is not in the cards for me. Mathias will make it a multiyear ride and I simply cannot devote the time to it. Kyle Thomas suggested that he and I ride the perimeter of Australia next year. That is doable. And I even speak the language, with a bit of an accent. So if Kyle is game, I am too!
Southern Colorado and New Mexico
on July 15, 2009
Southern Colorado and Northern New Mexico were fujn, as always. Cool mountain weather, winding and beautiful mountain roads and several friends along the way. In Durango, I stopped to attend a meeting with a small group of BMW riders. All interested in traveling to South America and Ushuaia. Alaska was not on their agenda, perhaps because they already ride every day in the mountains.
Finally I arrived in one of my favorite destinations, Taos. I cannot remember why I do not live in Taos, perhaps because of the winter. Snow is not conducive to motorcycle riding. One night in Taos and I was on my way south. Camping over the night at Concho Lake, just outside of Tucumcari. A gentle rain in the night but a nice and cool morning! And then off to Texas!
Texas! Dry, hot! Hot, yes, over 100 degrees in midafternoon and constant dry dusty wind. I love it! But today my helmet totally disintegrated. And I really must ride in a helmet, if only to keep my head from toasting. In a quandry, I pointed the Goose toward the one city where I thought I could find a good motorcycle shop. Late afternoon and I was in San Angelo at Family Power Sports, a really nice motorcycle dealer. One hour later and I was the proud owner of a new helmet and a pair of lightweight summer riding gloves.
Leaving the cycle shop at 600 P.M., it was still blistering hot. No camping tonight. I quickly checked into a nice LaQuinta! Clean, internet, air condiitioning and only $54 after some serious negotiatiions.
Tomorrow I am headed further south into the really hot country for a couple of days riding with new friends. And then on Sunday I hope to make it to San Antonio and visit with Jacob Peek to see if he can post my photographs on this blog. Several of you have written me asking why I have not taken photographs during this portion of my adventure. I have taken many, but I do not have a means of posting them. Maybe Jacob can help me find a way to share the scenes with you.
And then on to the coast of South Texas where the drought continues and the temperatures are above 100 degrees every day. If it seems to you that I am stalling, I am! I can't bear the thought that this, my dream for the past twenty years, is almost complete! I will do one last update on this adventure after I reach San Antonio Sunday.
Truckee, NV to Cortez, CO
on July 13, 2009
Friday and Saturday passed quickly in the company of my friends, Karen and Tom Johns. Great company, mountain and lake scenery and great meals. What else can a wandering motorcyclist ask for. A classic car show on Saturday capped off by dinner (on Tom) at a fabulous Mexican restaurant!
Sunday morning Karen was up early, at the grocery, picking up fresh fruits and pastries for breakfast. Exactly like the breakfasts that I was served in Argentina and Brazil. But by 8:30 A.M. The Goose and I were off, headed east out over Highway 50, The Lonliest Road in America. Thru Nevada and much of Utah and then south to Moab. Sunday was a spectacular ride. Riding briskly over the most beautiful mountain roads, the Goose took the lead, running a full 593 miles until finally reaching Cortez, CO, just on the border of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico.
Why Cortez? Because I had a great desire to visit Kelly and Karl, two amazing people that I first met at the Costa Rican border, back on November 3, 2008. Two smart and adventurous souls riding two up on their own adventure. Their destination? Ushuaia, where else? Kelly, a emergency room nurse and Karl, a physcians assistant. Both with a real zest for life and no fear of what lay ahead. Riding on a 2007 KLR650. Several hours spent together at the border of Costa Rica and then again in early January, 2009, at Ushuaia where we met at Rio Pico Campground, the home of all adventure riders in Ushuaia.
Upon their return to the States, Karl and Kelly relocated to the Four Corners Area, where Karl and Kelly are both providing much needed medical services to the local people, most of whom are the proud and delightful Native Americans who settled in and tamed this region hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago. Sunday night we had dinner together and relived our adventurs of the past many months.
Monday morning? I am not sure but it will be more of this great adventure!
Sunday morning Karen was up early, at the grocery, picking up fresh fruits and pastries for breakfast. Exactly like the breakfasts that I was served in Argentina and Brazil. But by 8:30 A.M. The Goose and I were off, headed east out over Highway 50, The Lonliest Road in America. Thru Nevada and much of Utah and then south to Moab. Sunday was a spectacular ride. Riding briskly over the most beautiful mountain roads, the Goose took the lead, running a full 593 miles until finally reaching Cortez, CO, just on the border of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico.
Why Cortez? Because I had a great desire to visit Kelly and Karl, two amazing people that I first met at the Costa Rican border, back on November 3, 2008. Two smart and adventurous souls riding two up on their own adventure. Their destination? Ushuaia, where else? Kelly, a emergency room nurse and Karl, a physcians assistant. Both with a real zest for life and no fear of what lay ahead. Riding on a 2007 KLR650. Several hours spent together at the border of Costa Rica and then again in early January, 2009, at Ushuaia where we met at Rio Pico Campground, the home of all adventure riders in Ushuaia.
Upon their return to the States, Karl and Kelly relocated to the Four Corners Area, where Karl and Kelly are both providing much needed medical services to the local people, most of whom are the proud and delightful Native Americans who settled in and tamed this region hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago. Sunday night we had dinner together and relived our adventurs of the past many months.
Monday morning? I am not sure but it will be more of this great adventure!
Northern California
on July 10, 2009
My time in Portland was great! After departing Erma and Bruce, I traveled a short distance to the home of my friends, Dave and Teri Blauer and had a wonderful reunion. Teri had a family day planned so I was able to meet all of her family and also enjoyed more of her good cooking.
Tuesday morning I departed for a leisurely ride to Northern CA. A beautiful ride in great weather. Some of the most spectacular views in America, past Mount Shasta and the Redwood Forest. Arriving in Folsom on Tuesday afternoon, I spent the next two days with old and close friends, Bonita and Kyle Thomas. Kyle is an avid bicycle rider, having ridden Australia and other great rides by bike. Luckily for me, Kyle also is a dedicated motorcycle rider. Wednesday morning found Kyle on his Triumph Tiger briskly leading me through the same wonderful roads we rode together twelve years ago when I lived across the street from Kyle and Bonita. Good company and food, but Thursday morning once again saw me and the Goose departing for new destinations. Maybe if I stay each place only two days, I will not overstay my welcome.
Up towards Georgetown, into the Tahoe National Forest, on past Hell Hole Reservoir and French Meadow Park and Reservoir. Rapidly moving through the winding roads and mountains into the vast remote forests that once were my weekly riding adventures. And after four hours of challenging and fun riding, the Goose and I were back on the rough Interstate 80 heading to Donner Pass and the home of my friends, Karen and Tom Johns. At 3:00 P.M. I arrived at their picturesque mountain retreat where we will stay until Saturday morning when I will be off again.
Dinner last night was at a nice restaurant on the wonderous Lake Tahoe, the most beautiful lake and view that I have ever had the opportunity to see. Breakfast this morning in Truckee and today we plan to enjoy a classic car and motorcycle show.
My bike is running great and we have a number of delightful rides in front of us before heading for Texas. The adventure continues.
Tuesday morning I departed for a leisurely ride to Northern CA. A beautiful ride in great weather. Some of the most spectacular views in America, past Mount Shasta and the Redwood Forest. Arriving in Folsom on Tuesday afternoon, I spent the next two days with old and close friends, Bonita and Kyle Thomas. Kyle is an avid bicycle rider, having ridden Australia and other great rides by bike. Luckily for me, Kyle also is a dedicated motorcycle rider. Wednesday morning found Kyle on his Triumph Tiger briskly leading me through the same wonderful roads we rode together twelve years ago when I lived across the street from Kyle and Bonita. Good company and food, but Thursday morning once again saw me and the Goose departing for new destinations. Maybe if I stay each place only two days, I will not overstay my welcome.
Up towards Georgetown, into the Tahoe National Forest, on past Hell Hole Reservoir and French Meadow Park and Reservoir. Rapidly moving through the winding roads and mountains into the vast remote forests that once were my weekly riding adventures. And after four hours of challenging and fun riding, the Goose and I were back on the rough Interstate 80 heading to Donner Pass and the home of my friends, Karen and Tom Johns. At 3:00 P.M. I arrived at their picturesque mountain retreat where we will stay until Saturday morning when I will be off again.
Dinner last night was at a nice restaurant on the wonderous Lake Tahoe, the most beautiful lake and view that I have ever had the opportunity to see. Breakfast this morning in Truckee and today we plan to enjoy a classic car and motorcycle show.
My bike is running great and we have a number of delightful rides in front of us before heading for Texas. The adventure continues.
4th of July With Oregon Airheads
on July 4, 2009
It has been a fabulous 4th of July! Yesterday, I arrived in Milwaukie, OR, a suburb of Portland. I am visiting with my friends and fellow BMW enthusiasts, Bruce and Erma Hoffman. Bruce rides a 1975 R90/6 and a 1973 R75/5, both classic "Airheads" cherished by those of us that who like classic standard motorcycles. Bruce is also a member of Oregon Airheads, a club of similar minded owners and enthusiasts.
Today, the "technical group" of this fine organization showed up at Bruce and Erma's to welcome me to Oregon and to work on my motorcycle. It was an amazing sight!. Led by Oregon Air Marshall, Garry Newby and Bruce Hoffman, this group of twelve or so people completely revitalized the Goose. Changed the oil and oil filter, mounted new Michelin Anakee tires, adjusted the valves, washed the bike, serviced the throttle, adjusted the carbs and who knows what else. The Goose has never run better.
On top of this Erma and her son Davis, prepared a barbeque for the whole group. A sumptious feast which I am still enjoying. What a 4th of July!
Tomorrow, I am heading over to my friends, Teri and Dave Blauer to join in a family party. Teri is a graduate of the Western Culinary Institue and is well known for her fabulous culinary skills. I am sure I will find something to enjoy. Monday morning, I am going through all of my gear and shipping all of my cold weather gear back to Texas! It is 90 degrees here so I have a lot of gear which I may never need again.
And by Monday afternoon, I will be off to Eureka, CA and then on south to see my friends in Northern CA.
Today, the "technical group" of this fine organization showed up at Bruce and Erma's to welcome me to Oregon and to work on my motorcycle. It was an amazing sight!. Led by Oregon Air Marshall, Garry Newby and Bruce Hoffman, this group of twelve or so people completely revitalized the Goose. Changed the oil and oil filter, mounted new Michelin Anakee tires, adjusted the valves, washed the bike, serviced the throttle, adjusted the carbs and who knows what else. The Goose has never run better.
On top of this Erma and her son Davis, prepared a barbeque for the whole group. A sumptious feast which I am still enjoying. What a 4th of July!
Tomorrow, I am heading over to my friends, Teri and Dave Blauer to join in a family party. Teri is a graduate of the Western Culinary Institue and is well known for her fabulous culinary skills. I am sure I will find something to enjoy. Monday morning, I am going through all of my gear and shipping all of my cold weather gear back to Texas! It is 90 degrees here so I have a lot of gear which I may never need again.
And by Monday afternoon, I will be off to Eureka, CA and then on south to see my friends in Northern CA.
Riding South Towards United States Border
on July 2, 2009
A man on a mission! 539 miles today in the beautiful moujntans and valleys of British Columbia. The Goose needs tires and I have decided to head to Portland, Oregon to reshoe my mount. A friend a and fellow BMW rider, Bruce Hoffman, lives in Portland and he has committed to having two Michelin Anakees waiting on me, plus he is going to take some time on the 4th of July to mount them. We all know what a mess I would make if I tried to mount them.
I should cross the border tomorrow by 10:00 A.M. and hope to be in Portland by 5:00 P.M. While in Portland, in addition to visiting with the Hoffmans, I am also going to visit two other friends, Dave and Teri Blauer, who I have not seen for some time. Actually, over the next couple of weeks, I am going to be seeing several other friends in Oregon and Northern California. Then I will be off to Colorado to meet up with fellow adventure riders with whom I spent time in South America. Exactly whom and where is yet to be decided.
This adventure is nearing completion. From the southern most point in the southern hemisphere to the northern most point in the northern hemisphere. Texas to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego and then from Texas to Prudhoe Bay! It seems unreal that I dreamed of this adventure for many years and now it is almost at it's end. But I am sure I can drag it out for a few more weeks. After all, there is no direct trail back to Texas and I have no GPS so maybe some wandering is in order.
I should cross the border tomorrow by 10:00 A.M. and hope to be in Portland by 5:00 P.M. While in Portland, in addition to visiting with the Hoffmans, I am also going to visit two other friends, Dave and Teri Blauer, who I have not seen for some time. Actually, over the next couple of weeks, I am going to be seeing several other friends in Oregon and Northern California. Then I will be off to Colorado to meet up with fellow adventure riders with whom I spent time in South America. Exactly whom and where is yet to be decided.
This adventure is nearing completion. From the southern most point in the southern hemisphere to the northern most point in the northern hemisphere. Texas to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego and then from Texas to Prudhoe Bay! It seems unreal that I dreamed of this adventure for many years and now it is almost at it's end. But I am sure I can drag it out for a few more weeks. After all, there is no direct trail back to Texas and I have no GPS so maybe some wandering is in order.
Riding In Beautiful British Columbia
on July 1, 2009
Yes, I like Canada, a beautiful country with great people. But I really like British Columbia. Great snow capped mountains, delightful and friendly people and the greatest motorcycle roads that I have experienced. And to top it all, today is Canada Day, the 142nd anniversary of the founding of Canada.
To celebrate Canada Day, the skies were clear today. No rain! and it was much warmer. My day was perfect, made so by the help of several Canadians. After getting mechanical advice from two trusted mechanical advisors, Lester Foreman and Gary Newton, I decided to backtrack to the small village of Kitwanga, where there was a mechanic willing to tackle my leak. Upon arriving, I met Eric Dollop, the owner of Dollops Gas and Service. Eric immediately tackled the problem and within ninety minutes he had installed a new gasket and cured my problem. This is the spirit of all the Canadians I have met here in B.C.
While waiting for the bike to be repaired, a BMW R1200GS pulled in and there was Alvin Gerstner, an Iron Butt Rider from Topeka, KS, that I had seen in at least three other locations over 1200 miles. Alvin had spent the night in Hyder and was now on his way to Prince George. I am sure out paths will cross again before we turn in different directions.
Arriving back in New Hazelton, I discovered that there was a celebration taking place in the park, and I was invited. Great food and drink, children having a ball, derby kart races and all the chocolate cake I could eat. I even got to meet a RCMP Sergent in full ceremonial uniform. And no rain.
Forty miles down the highway and I arrived at Smithers. What a shock, some semblence of the civilization that I had left behind. A Dairy Queen, McDonalds and KFC! And a golf course but guess what I saw on the fairway. Two black bears--at first I thought it was Eric and Frank but no--it was actually two black bears.
At 8:30 P.M. i arrived here in Prince George. What a great day this turned out to be. I got the bike fixed, met a number of nice people, attended my first Canada celebration and managed to even ride 379 miles.
Tomorrow, I plan to ride south, maybe to the outskirts of Vancouver. Today was great, on this 142nd anniversary of Canada, The adventure continues!!
To celebrate Canada Day, the skies were clear today. No rain! and it was much warmer. My day was perfect, made so by the help of several Canadians. After getting mechanical advice from two trusted mechanical advisors, Lester Foreman and Gary Newton, I decided to backtrack to the small village of Kitwanga, where there was a mechanic willing to tackle my leak. Upon arriving, I met Eric Dollop, the owner of Dollops Gas and Service. Eric immediately tackled the problem and within ninety minutes he had installed a new gasket and cured my problem. This is the spirit of all the Canadians I have met here in B.C.
While waiting for the bike to be repaired, a BMW R1200GS pulled in and there was Alvin Gerstner, an Iron Butt Rider from Topeka, KS, that I had seen in at least three other locations over 1200 miles. Alvin had spent the night in Hyder and was now on his way to Prince George. I am sure out paths will cross again before we turn in different directions.
Arriving back in New Hazelton, I discovered that there was a celebration taking place in the park, and I was invited. Great food and drink, children having a ball, derby kart races and all the chocolate cake I could eat. I even got to meet a RCMP Sergent in full ceremonial uniform. And no rain.
Forty miles down the highway and I arrived at Smithers. What a shock, some semblence of the civilization that I had left behind. A Dairy Queen, McDonalds and KFC! And a golf course but guess what I saw on the fairway. Two black bears--at first I thought it was Eric and Frank but no--it was actually two black bears.
At 8:30 P.M. i arrived here in Prince George. What a great day this turned out to be. I got the bike fixed, met a number of nice people, attended my first Canada celebration and managed to even ride 379 miles.
Tomorrow, I plan to ride south, maybe to the outskirts of Vancouver. Today was great, on this 142nd anniversary of Canada, The adventure continues!!
Return to Watson Lake and the Air Force Lodge
on June 29, 2009
Monday night and I am back in Watson Lake, the home of the "world famous signpost park". As you know, I visited this great town on my way north and stayed in the Air Force Lodge, First built in 1942 to house U.S. Army Air Corps Pilots stationed in
Watson Lake, under the Lend Lease Program, The lodge has been totally
restored. Tonight I am once again in an immaculate, if small, room exactly like
an Air Corps Officer would have inhabited in 1942. A great, if small
bed, a small desk, and
a shared latrine down the hall but this time I do have a television. I must have been promoted since my last visit.
Today's ride started cold, with steady rain, but after 75 miles, I rode out of the rain only to once again ride into the rain about ten miles north of Watson Lake. Tuesday I plan to ride south down the Cassiar Highway, a rather primitive ride, partially "chip seal" roads, some gravel and some pavement. Approximately 750 miles to Prince George and then another five hundred miles to Vancouver. Reputedly one of the most beautiful rides, through much of British Columbia and Vancouver. An area known for much rain! So what else is new?
Upon my arrival in Watson Lake, I visited Campground Services. Ltd. where the young owner spent about an hour changing the oil on the Goose and doing some other maintenance items. I am still 1500 miles or so from a BMW dealer and I do like to keep fresh oil in the bike. I just hope that the service man knew what he was doing when he changed the oil filter. It is a complicated process..
A challenging road tomorrow, beautiful scenery and many wild animals along the way and another day of adventure!
Today's ride started cold, with steady rain, but after 75 miles, I rode out of the rain only to once again ride into the rain about ten miles north of Watson Lake. Tuesday I plan to ride south down the Cassiar Highway, a rather primitive ride, partially "chip seal" roads, some gravel and some pavement. Approximately 750 miles to Prince George and then another five hundred miles to Vancouver. Reputedly one of the most beautiful rides, through much of British Columbia and Vancouver. An area known for much rain! So what else is new?
Upon my arrival in Watson Lake, I visited Campground Services. Ltd. where the young owner spent about an hour changing the oil on the Goose and doing some other maintenance items. I am still 1500 miles or so from a BMW dealer and I do like to keep fresh oil in the bike. I just hope that the service man knew what he was doing when he changed the oil filter. It is a complicated process..
A challenging road tomorrow, beautiful scenery and many wild animals along the way and another day of adventure!
Cooper Landing to Tok AK, and Onward to Whitehorse, Yukon
on June 28, 2009
Rain, cold continuous rain. The only day that I have not had substantial rain was Wednesday whiile I was visiting friends in Cooper Landing on the Kenai Peninsula. And that was the only day that I did not ride the Goose at all. My friend, George Anderson, took me and Sam Fasson, a new friend, to Seward for a great meal of Halibut and some great sightseeing. Later that evening we were treated to one of my favorite meals, spaghetti and meat sauce.topped off with German chocolate cake. All prepared and served by Amanda and Katlyn. See, I really am being treated like royalty.
Thursday morning I departed The Hutch headed for Tok. What a beautiful ride. Majestic snow capped mountains for most of the 390 mile ride. And rain, cold rain, for about 150 miles. Arriving in Tok, I immediately booked a rustic cabin at Thompson's Eagle's Claw Motorcycle Park, a great motorcycle campground. Tent sites for $10, cabins for $20 and a bunkhouse for $10 per person. I stayed in the bunkhouse although no one else was there. My own cabin for $10. No electricity, water or heat and it was cold. During the night it began to rain and it rained steadily for the next two days. Yes, I stayed two nights, in the cold rain in a cabin in the woods of Alaska. I really had meant to go to Whitehorse Friday morning and I did start out in the rain but I had bike problems about thirty miles after departing. Hard rain and one cylinder cut out. I finally stopped and put in a new spark plug but the bike was still running terribly. I once again stopped to examine the plug and discovered that the plug gap was incorrect. And I had no feeler gauge.
Nothing to do but to return to my cold cabin in Tok and try to find a motorcycle mechanic. Arriving in Tok I found the Stihl Chainsaw shop and met the owner, Bryce. Bryce has some motorcycle mechanical knowledge and took a look at the bike. As I knew the plug was severely out of proper gap. But Bryce also felt that bike needed a valve adjustment. I also wanted him to check and lubricate my throttle cable. Three hours later, Bryce told me he believed he had fixed my problems. His bill--$234. That hurt, but what else can you do when you are broke down in rainy Tok, AK?
It rained all night Thursday night. At least that kept the bears and mosquitoe away from the cabin. Friday morning it was raining even harder but I packed up the bike and headed out for the Canadian border and on to the Yukon. The road in the Yukon is replete with frost heaves and is under maintenance much of the way. Gravel surfaces in six different areas for a total of 43 miles of loose gravel, in the cold rain. A beautiful ride, particularly around Destruction Bay! but at one construction site, I came upon a serious motorcycle accident, a Goldwing down after the rider lost it in the gravel.. A sad ending to one rider's advenutre. Probably an adventure he had planned for years.
Pushing on I finally reached Whitehorse, the capitol of the Yukon and checked in at the River View Hotel, ;the same hotel in which I rested some ten days ago. A challenging and cold ride today over 397 miles. After so much rain, I have to dry my gear out and also I need rest. I have decided to stay here in the River View hotel for two nights. Whitehorse is the most delightful town I have visited during this adventure. Both a modern and a frontier town, it is a great l stop. The Yukon has a total population of slightly over 32,000 and 27,000 of those live in Whitehorse. But Monday I will press to Watson Lake and the Air Force Lodge. What an adventure, even in the rain and cold!
Thursday morning I departed The Hutch headed for Tok. What a beautiful ride. Majestic snow capped mountains for most of the 390 mile ride. And rain, cold rain, for about 150 miles. Arriving in Tok, I immediately booked a rustic cabin at Thompson's Eagle's Claw Motorcycle Park, a great motorcycle campground. Tent sites for $10, cabins for $20 and a bunkhouse for $10 per person. I stayed in the bunkhouse although no one else was there. My own cabin for $10. No electricity, water or heat and it was cold. During the night it began to rain and it rained steadily for the next two days. Yes, I stayed two nights, in the cold rain in a cabin in the woods of Alaska. I really had meant to go to Whitehorse Friday morning and I did start out in the rain but I had bike problems about thirty miles after departing. Hard rain and one cylinder cut out. I finally stopped and put in a new spark plug but the bike was still running terribly. I once again stopped to examine the plug and discovered that the plug gap was incorrect. And I had no feeler gauge.
Nothing to do but to return to my cold cabin in Tok and try to find a motorcycle mechanic. Arriving in Tok I found the Stihl Chainsaw shop and met the owner, Bryce. Bryce has some motorcycle mechanical knowledge and took a look at the bike. As I knew the plug was severely out of proper gap. But Bryce also felt that bike needed a valve adjustment. I also wanted him to check and lubricate my throttle cable. Three hours later, Bryce told me he believed he had fixed my problems. His bill--$234. That hurt, but what else can you do when you are broke down in rainy Tok, AK?
It rained all night Thursday night. At least that kept the bears and mosquitoe away from the cabin. Friday morning it was raining even harder but I packed up the bike and headed out for the Canadian border and on to the Yukon. The road in the Yukon is replete with frost heaves and is under maintenance much of the way. Gravel surfaces in six different areas for a total of 43 miles of loose gravel, in the cold rain. A beautiful ride, particularly around Destruction Bay! but at one construction site, I came upon a serious motorcycle accident, a Goldwing down after the rider lost it in the gravel.. A sad ending to one rider's advenutre. Probably an adventure he had planned for years.
Pushing on I finally reached Whitehorse, the capitol of the Yukon and checked in at the River View Hotel, ;the same hotel in which I rested some ten days ago. A challenging and cold ride today over 397 miles. After so much rain, I have to dry my gear out and also I need rest. I have decided to stay here in the River View hotel for two nights. Whitehorse is the most delightful town I have visited during this adventure. Both a modern and a frontier town, it is a great l stop. The Yukon has a total population of slightly over 32,000 and 27,000 of those live in Whitehorse. But Monday I will press to Watson Lake and the Air Force Lodge. What an adventure, even in the rain and cold!